Azores Islands

The Azores are nine volcanic islands in the mid-Atlantic, two hours west of Lisbon by plane and somehow still a relative secret. São Miguel, the largest, is the easy three-day introduction: crater lakes filling extinct volcanoes, pineapple greenhouses, geothermal cooking, whale-watching tours, and tea plantations — the only commercial ones in Europe. June is the sweet spot: warm enough to swim in the natural pools, dry enough for hiking, and the hydrangea hedges that line every road are bursting into blue.

Portuguese sailors discovered the uninhabited Azores in 1427 and built a Portuguese-Atlantic culture out of whaling, citrus and dairy farming. Most islands feel timeworn in the best way — black and white basalt churches, dry-stone walls dividing pastures, sleepy villages where the priest still leads festas with bull-running and brass bands. Whaling stopped in 1984; the same boats now go out for whale-watching, and ex-whaler grandfathers spot the spouts.

Volcanic cooking is the headline. Cozido das Furnas is a stew of seven meats and vegetables buried in cloth bags in the geothermal ground at Furnas for six hours — try it at Tony's. Drink Kima, the local passionfruit soda. Pineapple from Faja de Baixo is excruciatingly sweet. Try São Jorge cheese, aged in lava caves, and lapas (grilled limpets) with garlic butter. For one big meal book A Tasca in Ponta Delgada.

May to September is the best window — warmest, driest, best for hiking. June has the festas dos Santos Populares (saints' festivals) with brass bands and street parties. Whale season runs March through October, with blue whales typically in May and sperm whales year-round. Winter is mild but very wet — fine if you want quiet hot springs and no crowds.

Fly into Ponta Delgada from Lisbon, Porto, Boston or several European hubs. SATA inter-island flights are cheap if you island-hop. Rent a car immediately — buses are infrequent. Roads are narrow and twisty but well maintained. Bring real waterproofs and proper hiking shoes. The euro works as you'd expect; cards everywhere.

Drive to the Sete Cidades viewpoint at Vista do Rei early before clouds settle. The Poça da Dona Beija hot springs (€8) outside Furnas are open until 11pm and almost empty after dark. Hike the Mata do Canário to Sete Cidades ridge for the lake views without the bus tours.