Tbilisi to Kazbegi

The Georgian Military Highway is one of the great mountain drives in Eurasia — 160km of switchbacks north from Tbilisi through gorges, past hydroelectric reservoirs and ancient fortresses, ending at the village of Stepantsminda (still locally called Kazbegi) with Mount Kazbek looming five-and-a-half thousand metres above. August is the peak window: passes clear of snow, alpine meadows in full flower, hikes accessible, and warm enough at altitude that the famous Gergeti Trinity Church sits in pale sunshine instead of cloud.

The road's name comes from the Russian Empire, which built it in the late 18th century as the route to colonise the Caucasus. The route has been used for millennia though — Pushkin, Lermontov and Chekhov all wrote about the dramatic landscape. Ananuri fortress, an hour out of Tbilisi, has guarded the road since the 13th century. The Soviet-era friendship mural at the Jvari Pass viewpoint is wild kitsch and an essential photo stop.

Kazbegi serves the best khinkali in Georgia — the cold mountain air supposedly affects the dough. Try them at Khinkali House Stepantsminda. Higher in the mountains, eat Khevsureti dishes like khinkali stuffed with cottage cheese and herbs (kalakuri are the city version, dambalkhacho the cheesy mountain one). The local sulguni cheese is essential. Bring or buy water and a few snacks — once you're past Ananuri, options thin out.

June through September is the safe window — snow-free passes, accessible trails. October brings spectacular autumn colour but unpredictable weather. The road can close in winter (November–April) for hours or days; not recommended without a proper 4x4 and chains. August has the longest dry spells and the best hiking conditions but also the most tourist vans — start very early.

Hire a driver from Tbilisi for around 80–120 USD if you don't want to drive the road yourself (sensible — there are landslides, slow trucks, and crazy overtaking on blind curves). A marshrutka minibus runs daily for a few lari but is cramped. Pack layers — Stepantsminda sits at 1,750m and is 10°C cooler than Tbilisi. The hike to Gergeti Trinity takes 1.5 hours each way; 4x4 shuttles operate for the lazy.

Continue past Stepantsminda to the Dariali Gorge near the Russian border for a dramatic monastery and waterfall. Detour into the Truso Valley for an almost untouched alpine valley with mineral hot springs and abandoned watchtowers — a 4x4 or a long hike gets you there.